Tip of the Spear

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It must be something to lose a country. Let alone twice in living memory. Hong Kong always served as a fascinating place for me, a cultural bridge between East and West. I harken back to the best summer of my life: I was reading in a USA Today that on July 1, 1997, this British colony would be transferred back to China after their 99-year lease expired, a borrowed trophy from a mostly forgotten war. Being a relatively precocious teenager, I understood that I was living in history. However, little did any of us know how far-reaching this effect would be.

I arrived in Hong Kong 22 years after the turnover. There was a collective apprehension as thick as the humidity regarding precisely what the Communists were going to do. Since it came back under the Chinese sphere of influence, many Mainland businesses were listed on the Hong Kong stock exchange, and many Mainland businessmen sought to invest in a place more friendly to their ambitions. Macau, the former Portuguese colony, served as a place where the Middle Kingdom’s nouveau riche could blow their earnings in casinos more opulent than any I had seen in the West.

Yet, there is still yet another looming deadline. In 2047, the idea of a Special Administrative Region, the designation of both Hong Kong and Macau, is slated to die as well as the concept of “One Country, Two Systems.” The Communists know that they need both soft and hard power to keep the freedom-loving people of Hong Kong in check. So, they allow only a set list of people to run for office, which the Party approves. If that doesn’t work, there are elite garrisons of the People’s Liberation Army quartered in Central Hong Kong, ready to suppress any dissent. 

Due to this, there was disquiet, especially on the Kowloon side of Victoria Harbour. The ravenous purchase of property by Communist oligarchs serves as a way to protect their newly acquired wealth, both in an investment sense and also from the clutches of the Communist horde at home. Like any profit and loss statement, while the oligarchs profit, the people of the poorer districts of Hong Kong lose. Many are forced to leave their homes, moving their families to Cage Houses, illegal (and sweltering) top floor shed apartments, or the street. I have long said that the Communist Chinese are more Capitalist than even the West, as there are even things the most ruthless conglomerate would not do. Coupled with an expedient existential morality, the most profitable of ends justify the evilest of means.   

Hong Kong will serve as the canary in this coal mine of global politics. And they know it. There is an ominous foreboding odium that the tip of the spear of the Chinese Communist Party will first pass through this last beating heart of freedom in the region to strike the rest of the world; in due time. 

Isle of Land

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Before my arrival in South Korea, I only had some cursory information regarding this peninsula. I knew my uncle, who was a brilliant doctor, spent time here during the Vietnam War as he patched injured fighting boys up before sending them stateside. I knew my friend had done some time here when he was in the Army, and my other friend packed his bags and moved halfway around the world to here; a kind of “Go East young man;” manifesting his destiny. My aunt talked about how ginseng was peddled on the streets as a cure-all, and I watched the rise of Kia, Samsung, and Lexus from afar. Overshadowing them all by a few kilotons, of course, is the contentious relationship with the nuclear-armed North.

Most Americans in my generation and before know the television show M.A.S.H. that used the Korean War as a backdrop for sexy shenanigans and maudlin soliloquies. Younger ones know Dick Whitman’s to Don Draper’s transformation using the same backdrop. Beyond the glitz of show lights, the often forgot Korean War, was the first test of the new world order in the wake of World War II, a mere five years earlier. It was the first proxy war with a nuclear-backed detente in a series of them for the next 40 something years. Some might even call it the first domino in Truman’s theory of the same name. The war cost hundreds of thousands of people, including the family of my cousin’s wife’s grandmother.

When I got to Busan on the South-Eastern quadrant of South Korea, the presence of the UN forces, lead by America, was quite palatable. Streets were named after US states, some Western food chains were available to eat, and there were even a few imported beers like Budweiser. However, the most beautiful and haunting aspect was the only United Nations Cemetery in the world.

Korea was a colony of Japan starting in 1910 after the Japanese trounced the forces of Imperial Russia in the Russo-Japanese War ending in 1905. Then, as the Japanese thirst for expansion grew in the interwar years, the Imperial Japanese grip tightened and the same dirty deeds done in the colony of Manchuria; they did on the peninsula. Like how after World War II, Germany was divided into East and West, Korea was divided into North and South along the 38thParallel; left in utter shambles. The Communist Chinese and the Soviet Union supported the rule of Kim Il-Sung, the father of modern-day North Korea, while the newly created United Nations backed the South. In the early days of the Korean War, with the consent of the Soviet Union and China, Kim Il-Sung decided he wanted to expose the rest of the peninsula to the wonders of communism. Seemingly unabated, the Communist forces pushed all the way to the Busan Perimeter as the UN was holding meetings to try and figure out what to do. It was in Busan where the UN forces made their stand and began repelling the Northern army. As such, it was safe ground to start burying their dead. While it was a UN war, with nations from 22 countries that comprised the UN Command in both warriors and aid, it was the Americans that took the most casualties by a foreign army with Koreans, of course, having the most of any participant.

Walking the solemn grounds of the cemetery while a light rain fell, it was a stark realization that even after years of war, millions of deaths, and unprecedented destruction, some men’s nature is always seeking more: more land, more resources, more power. It is up to those who understand it to be vigilant and be the stalwarts against it. Their names like many others are etched in stone, in metal, and on the hearts of the people they liberated.

Traveling to Seoul was like stepping into a different world as compared to Busan. While there were some clues that a military standoff was occurring, like gas masks in the subway, it appeared to be just another big frenetic city. There were restaurants, temples, discos, and bars all teeming with people. I guess they have just gotten used to it.

Immaculately kept, beautiful porcelain-skinned women with big, fake… eyelashes walked the streets, which is something I was not expecting. In the other Asian countries I had visited thus far, the women seemed more dower, downplaying their femininity. But not in Seoul. I can understand more clearly why my friend decided to move halfway across the world.

Going to the Demilitarized Zone was an experience that I will never forget. As someone that has studied conflicts, war, and competing ideologies, it was fascinating to be in a place so close to the “other side.” Again, much like back in Seoul, being near an enemy was not such a big deal. If they can have a Popeye’s Chicken restaurant about four miles from enemy territory, then it is pretty obvious the bullets are not flying. None the less, there was danger as there were posted signs warning of landmines throughout the area. After the war, the South knew they were a deterrent while the North knew the next time they invaded, they would need to burrow like moles, or the Viet Cong, to avoid them.

Looking out over the stark No-Mans-Land, a term coined from the War to End All Wars, there was such a contrast between the haves and the have-nots that this border divided. The crown of the south, Seoul, has its futuristic brilliance of thriving commercialism: well-fed, tall, and beautiful people peacefully walk the streets while taking breaks from their jobs in the fields of bleeding-edge technology, spending their wages in gigantic department stores. While the Northern capital of Pyongyang has a few buildings housing the politically connected with reliable electricity. There is no comparison of how well the people live in the South, but even living well harbors resentment with the have-little-want-more crowd.

My desire before I arrived in this country was that the works of President Donald Trump and Chairman Kim Jong-un would make the world a safer place, finally ending the War that is still not over. Maybe these two leaders could set aside generations of mistrust to actually get work done.  Although, at the time of this writing, it looks like those ideals will need to be on hold for a while. The dream of reunification is still possible, however, but only after those with the scars of the war carved into their psyches have passed on. As I was talking to our guide at the DMZ, a young woman named Sue, she said her dream was to travel from Seoul to Spain on their completed train line with the North. This would connect South Korea, her Isle of Land – comprised of water on three sides and a currently uncrossable border, to the rest of the world. I asked her when she thought this would happen. The spark of idealism usually contained within the eyes of a 20’s-ish young woman went out. She replied morosely, “when I am a very old woman. If even then.”

Destroyer of Worlds

eat pray greg atomic bomb memorial cenotaph hiroshima

When his “Gadget” detonated in the New Mexican desert in July of 1945, Robert Oppenheimer quoted the Bhagavad Gita, “Now I have become Death, the destroyer of worlds.” Being the binding force of the Manhattan Project, Oppenheimer knew that humanity had passed through the looking glass of which we had no return. The awesome power of the atom was fully exploited, and for the first time in the history of the Earth, a species had the means to kill it.

It is one thing to have read about the wanton destruction caused by two unprecedented bombs at the hands of Americans: peeling skin fused with clothing, bald children riddled with tumors not long for the world when they had seen so little of it, and shadows burned on concrete as the dead’s only epitaphs. It is another thing to be there, exactly in the spots where the fuel of the cosmos was unleashed so many lifetimes ago.

In my younger years, I had an incredible fascination with Japan; I am a child of the Nintendo era, after all. This magical land, a world away, captivated me for many reasons: the food, the language, martial arts, and technology. I even started learning Japanese through tapes and had a Japanese best friend at summer camp.

As I grew and my understanding of the intertwining histories of our countries increased, I became more perplexed about the accounts I was discovering. I learned of the actions in Manchuria, in Korea, and other parts of the world where Japan’s military powers took control with a strangling grip. I knew the Japanese as scholars, engineers, architects, artists, financiers, and businessmen; all striving for nearly attainable perfection with a penchant for the respect of honor and the administration of authority.

Like the Germans.

And like the Germans, I began to see why not only they were allied during World War II, but they did what they did during its destructive course, hopeful for a new purified world of their creation that would spin upon their Axis. That striving for perfection and the reawakening of their warrior culture lead them down the darkest path of imperialism, eugenics, atrocities, and inhumanity. What we in the West humbly forget beneath the sands of time is that this was the first Asian country since the hordes of Genghis Khan that had a likely chance at overtaking parts of Western Civilization.

With this conflict in my heart, I made my second coming to Japan. Traveling over fifteen days from Tokyo to Kyoto, Osaka to Hiroshima to Nagasaki, and Fukuoka, it unfolded in front of me. I looked upon the land of the Rising Sun with an unjaundiced eye.

While the Germans are ashamed of their wartime past, from what I experienced, the Japanese see it as a temporary dalliance. One that they felt they paid for with a few kilotons, decades of occupation, and disarmament.

Their historical displays, shrines, and museums I saw downplayed their role in the war, citing various reasons they lashed out at Western powers. This included the oil blockade that lead to their surprise attack on Pearl Harbor. They did not mention the various policies of encroachment on sovereign countries years before the war reached Europe, putting the captured under hellish yokes of physical and sexual slavery. They used plausible deniability, saying that in their colonies and conquered lands that the grotesque actions of rape and murder perpetrated were those of men without sanction from home.

In the cities scorched by human-made suns, their memorials questioned why such awful measures were needed. They seemingly denied that every last civilian was being trained to repel an Allied invasion, including grandmothers with broomsticks. This would have cost countless more lives on both sides, possibly even my own grandfather’s, negating my very existence. I say this all being intimately aware of my own country’s actions during this dark time of humanity: firebombings, the collection of macabre trophies, and the internment of our citizens. 

Sins of the grandfather’s aside, although I was an obvious gaijin (foreigner,) that did not stop them from treating me with the utmost respect. From watching the futuristic marvel cityscape sprawl before me from the apex of a hotel bar with Tokyo Tower flickering in the distance, to speeding along the pristine highways on their immaculate intercity buses or even in a frosty glass of Suntory whiskey, the Japanese attention to detail and service was astounding. Everywhere I went, I could feel how honored my hosts were to have me, whether it be in a restaurant, convenience store, hotel, tram, bus, train, shop or simply walking along the street. I began learning a few of their customs and a few words to reciprocate their courtesy. The lessons learned there have become engrained in me, such as handing over my credit card to a cashier with both hands while making a little bow. It is considered quite rude to do otherwise. For in Japan, the respect one shows to others is more internal, in that, it is a measure of the person and of that person’s lineage. 

In the seminal work of post-war Japanese culture The Chrysanthemum and the Sword, anthropologist Ruth Benedict states that the Japanese are

“…both aggressive and unaggressive, both militaristic and aesthetic, both insolent and polite, rigid and adaptable, submissive and resentful of being pushed around, loyal and treacherous, brave and timid, conservative and hospitable to new ways…”

It is in this duality, much like that of all men, where the most profound truths are revealed. While Oppenheimer lamented of the worlds that could be destroyed, he did not consider the ones would be created. His “Gadget” quickly ended a war that was the bloodiest conflict in human history. It cleft sadistic militarism from the soul of the Japanese allowing them to refocus their indomitable spirits in more constructive areas under the protection of the United States. Finally, it offered the promise of a brave new world to dawn in the Land of the Rising Sun.

Evil Twin

Eat. Pray. Greg Guns

Imagine, if you would, that the Union lost the Civil War. Jefferson Davis and his army, commanded by Robert E. Lee, headed North, leaving nothing but desolation in their wake. Anyone that had shown succor to the Union cause was rounded up, their possessions taken and redistributed before they were executed. Before the Confederacy could dispatch the Union High Command, Lincoln and his generals gathered all the moveable treasure they could. They liquidated museums, libraries, even our very Constitution and spirited them away to Puerto Rico. This new government in exile lay in wait as the champions of slavery spread across the country.

While this scenario did not occur in the United States, it did for Taiwan, the Republic of China. It is a developing nation. At least concerning its now disconjoined evil twin, the People’s Republic of China. They once fought side by side, Red, and White, against their both red and white invader, the Empire of Japan. However, the sticky blood spilled in Manchuria was not enough to continue to bind them together. The culmination of the Civil War in 1949 drove the White Chinese out across the sea. But this scrappy island still made great sacrifices for what is important: museums, memorials, and, most importantly, munitions. As I was walking around the giant azure temple of deference to the Chiang Kai Shek, the founder of Taiwan and their Lincoln, I understood what a precarious situation in which they find themselves. I knew that this site, this hallowed ground of theirs, would be the first casualty if China decided to let slip the dogs of war for the final time. And the government knew too as there were 38 years of Martial Law, finally ending in 1987.

Either excited or immune to the constant threat of invasion by troops or atoms, the Taiwanese are a joyous and industrious people. I saw that for myself, the electricity flowing through patrons and shop vendors at their night markets: smiles, shouting, laughter, and music. I chose to visit Taiwan as someone I had worked with had lived here for 11 years, learning Mandarin and having adventures. He told me of their markets, their nightlife, but most importantly, their history.

Every year, millions of mainlanders come to see the works of art that were saved from the fires of Mao Zedong’s Cultural Revolution. Using this unique space in front of the National Palace Museum, volunteers stand out front with graphic depictions on signs of what is carefully hidden from those visiting: vivisection, organ harvesting, rape, and murder all at the hands of the CCP. Being well versed in the plight of the Falun Gong for over 20 years, it is nothing new to me. I was filled with inquisitiveness when I happened on a protest of tai chi being done by hundreds of people on 7th Ave in New York City in front of an HSBC building. However, I imagine someone stepping off a tour bus being confronted with their government’s evils for the first time. Not historically, but happening right now. What questions would they ask themselves? What questions could they ask themselves? Most importantly, what questions should they ask themselves?

Subtitles

eat pray greg view from the top

To be honest, I had no idea what to expect from this island city-state. I grew up with stories of Michael Fay, his post-modern artwork, and his subsequent punishment, so I knew to be on my best behavior. And I was right. 

On the entry card in big red letters, it states with absolute authority ‘Death for drug traffickers under Singapore law. ʼ However, on my walk around town the next day, I noticed the narcotics wing of the police department took up an entire city block. Maybe it is because of the flooded shipping channels and the neighborhood (it takes an hour to go from one end of Singapore to the other by car, then youʼre in Malaysia or a short boat ride to Indonesia.) It reminded me of what Thucydides related in his History of the Peloponnesian War in that no matter the punishment, a lot of men are inclined towards danger. As such, apparently, on the subway or at a bar, if you bump into a young lady, she can cry out “molester!” and you are subject to arrest, fine, jail time and caning

Singapore is like traveling through Asia with English subtitles. It is safe but weary; pretty graphic terrorism videos in the subway like to remind people to be on guard. Frankly, I do not know how many people of so many backgrounds (Chinese, Malaysian, Hindi, European) get along so well. I then realized, it is all about money: Banks need workers, service industry needs workers, shipping needs workers, construction needs workers, home care needs workers, and the government needs taxes. 

The locals have a saying that Singapore is a fine city, they fine you for littering, spitting, not flushing the toilet (really) and a host of other things. What they do not mention is the taxes that arenʼt taxes, but “rights.” For example, to buy a car in Singapore, you must submit a bid to the government starting at USD $50,000. Once you get your “Right of Entitlement,” you can then go buy your car. But you can only drive it for ten years before the process begins anew. That is why public transit is so cheap and clean. The government wants to keep the people happy and the roads clear.

Now, on to what I liked best about Singapore: the food. I ate my way through the city like Godzilla. A lot of restaurants and hawker stalls (giant food courts) are open at all hours of the night. When I arrived at three in the morning on my first day, some were still full of people slurping their noodles from communal tables. You can get an appetizer at one, entree at another, dessert at another, and drink at yet one more. Chinese, Malay, Indian, Vietnamese, Thai, Indonesian, it does not matter your tastes. And all of them are excellent and cheap. Much like how the best actors come from the theatre, the best hawkers are the ones that deal with audience interaction best. If they are too slow, too pricey, or just rude, the elasticity of demand drives patrons elsewhere. That is why one hawker, in particular, Lio Fan, got a Michelin star. 

Finally, with no natural resources, real estate is what makes Singapore unique in these separate yet linked categories: past, present, and future:

Singaporeʼs historical importance can be stated in three words: location, location, location. This comes from the fact it is located at the shipping nexus of East and West. Many empires staked claim to the area, but from the 19th Century on, a pivotal aspect to its history is that, unlike its neighbors, it did not mind its colonial shackles and reluctantly accepted its independence when the sun finally set upon the British Empire in the middle of the last century. They piggybacked on the Western principles and refined them with Asian adroitness.

At present, of the 5 million inhabitants of this modern nation-state, 80% live in “government” housing. A low end apartments costs $250,000 to $350,000. You do not own it but are leasing it for 99 years from the government. If you are buying it alone, without a family or a spouse, you need to be at least 35. That is why there are so many crazy rich Asians here (187,000 millionaires,) the government needs people to build.

Real estate will keep this country rich, and in time, possibly overtake what we consider the Western monoliths of today. Ask Eduardo  Saverin, one of the co-founders of Facebook that renounced his citizenship for a Singapore one. Just down the street from the Marina Bay Sands, the most expensive casino complex ever built at USD $5.7 Billion, an expanded financial district is being constructed upon reclaimed land with imported sand. Now, before biblical irony sets in, the towers that have not even been built yet are already leased by significant concerns. As long as the Eastern countries continue to rise like the sun in the 21st Century and beyond, Singapore will have a very lucrative future.

Joi De Vivre

eat pray greg bondi beach

If New Zealand were Northern California, then Australia is definitely Southern. There is a flashy side (Sydney/Los Angeles,) a quirky side (Adelaide/Pasadena,) and the beachy/industrial complex of Perth/San Diego. The people have a feral joi de vivre that comes from their unique history of being a continent of incarceration at the end of the world. These British Texans, they make do: From being some of the best ersatz engineers in all of creation to finding the simple pleasures of life in a sunset atop a camper van with a frosty VB in the shadow of Uluru.

When the cat’s away, the mice will play, however. And play they do. The wilderness is not just contained outside, but within, just under the surface. In some cases on the surface, I have never seen so many human canvasses in such proximity. Maybe thatʼs why the liquor laws are so strict in the larger cities, which I learned firsthand. A lot of their history is based on prisons, prison insurrections, citizen insurrections, government strikes, police strikes, that often ended in baton strikes.  As the song says, the women glow and men plunder.

The first hospital in Sydney was built by a syndicate of rum barons at the urging of the colonial government. For the sole right to import and thus gain a monopoly of 45,000 gallons of rum to the colony, the governor of New South Wales invited two merchants to build a hospital to serve the prison workforce. The governor could not get funding by any other means. This serves as a metaphor for Australia: expedient dealings (or some might call victimless crimes) are the norm for the people of the land Down Under. Fitting that hospital now serves as one of the buildings of the NSW Parliament. 

The interesting thing I learned here is that they really do not discuss their history: not about the penal colony, not about the Aboriginal injustices of the past, nor of their exploitation at present. They, like their New Zealand counterparts, pay lip service to the ancestral 60,000-year-old caretakers of this land, but there are no reservations, no casinos, no mobility, and no hope.

The anomaly of this whole country is Melbourne, which has become one of my favorite cities in the world. It reminded me of my childhood in Philadelphia; the streets lined with comforting sycamore trees and the quaint row homes. Philadelphia finds itself in the casted shadows of New York and the District of Colombia, much like Melbourne finds itself in the umbra of Sydney and Canberra. And in that shadow, like beautiful toadstools, creativity flourishes. This is why Melbourne has a distinct culture, unlike the rest of the country. The streets exude je ne sais quoi. So many famous artists hail from this city of four seasons in one day: Cate Blanchett, Kylie Minogue, Olivia Newton-John, Flea, Ben Mendelsohn, Isabel Lucas, and even Ruby Rose. There are few cities outside of America where I feel I could live peacefully and comfortably, but Melbourne has definitely become one.

The Barista

eat pray greg thoughts on new zealand

New Zealand, this place, is a wonder, both beautiful and profound. I do not mean profound as in sage-like, I mean profound as in very deep with many things stirring under the surface. If New Zealand were a person, it would be an attractive, trim, be-speckled barista in stylish thrift store clothes with a few hidden tribal tattoos with meanings only (sort of) beknownst to them. Slightly edgy, like a butter knife at a high-end restaurant, they could easily be confused with being from Northern California. Other than their penchant for art and their natural, ruthlessly protected beauty, they are not of much consequence to the world.  They are rife with colonial guilt over what their ancestors did to the natives, as demonstrated by keeping Maori words for things as a type of penance. However, not too long ago, they turned a blind eye to the forcible removal of unarmed native protestors desperately trying to keep their tribal lands. They are personable and well mannered, but behind closed doors, there is a bit of resentment towards those that they see only on screens on the other edge of Western civilization. These kiwis sit watching full of silent judgment. They say to themselves, “Hey! Look at us! We can do so much more than you, big guys!” Yet they fail to take into account the mostly homogeneous demographics (forgetting their often exploited foreign labor) and that their country has a fraction of the population with almost none of the global responsibility.  While going out of their way to show reverence to their devout feminism, most seem to gloss over that in every city, town, and hamlet in the country, someone lost a brother, father, or husband in the World Wars. Like in too many places the world over, memorials are constructed only to forget. In summation, New Zealand is a natural wonder. It is filled with almost indescribable beauty. Yet, like a secluded hermit, they are very set in their sometimes paradoxical ways. Worth a visit, bring the kids.