Again, as before, I do not really sleep well when I know I have to get up early. This is both a blessing and a curse in that even though I do not sleep, I do not miss my appointments either. I got up, collected my things, and headed back to Hakata station. I took an airport transfer bus that inaccurately depicted how much the ride was going to be. Luckily, I decided against buying a tea at the station that would have not left me with enough money to pay the fare. As I had some problems trying to convert money at the airports while I was traveling, I like spending all the cash I can. I try to minimize the need to transfer into the next currency while also walking the line of not needing to take out any more.
I had some time to kill at the station, so I went upstairs and relaxed a little. I got the bus and arrived at the airport. I checked in then went through security. My neurons werenʼt firing right given the lack of sleep and I forgot I had a water bottle in my vest as well as my full Nalgene bottle. I graciously apologized with a bow. I got settled at the airport and found a ¥50 coin which I was very excited to spend. However, somehow in my wanderings around Fukuoka’s airport, I lost it. I boarded the plane, got settled in my seat and after take-off, I entertained myself by watching some Korean zombie cinema, The Train to Busan on my hour-long flight.
I landed and entered the Republic of Korea with no problem. I took another bus from the airport all the way to right outside my hostel. Honestly, I have no idea how I have had such good luck it getting to where I need to go. I walked towards Busan’s main train station, took a right, and then walked to my accommodations. Although I made it a strict policy to find places that accepted credit cards, apparently this one had changed its policy and requested that I pay in cash. Luckily, it was mid-afternoon when I arrived. I dropped my stuff at the front desk and had to walk to 4 ATMs before I found one that would take my card. I learned from experience that if one tries too many times at a single ATM for cash, the card will be taken by the machine kept as it thinks it is attempted fraud. I held my breath as I tried my 4th ATM. I breathed a sign of relief when the cash was released. I came back and checked in. 
Joe (the gentleman that ran the hostel) and Mozzi (the dog, namesake, mascot, and real boss of the hostel) greeted me upon my return. I was shown my bed which I desperately needed. I got settled, then I nodded off for a bit. I woke up and then finished Train To Busan. I set out to get something to eat and realized that due to my proximity to the harbor and the train station, I was in the middle of the pink light district. This meant there were a lot of Russian run clubs for meeting women. Since this was not on my menu for the night, I ended up having a great dinner at what seemed like a Korean version of a TGIFridays for noodles. I walked to a convenience store and bought some beer and some apple pears for dessert. One of the best things about this hostel was the view from the kitchen’s floor to ceiling windows. It was a sprawling panorama of Busan harbor, complete with the Rainbow Road like Busan Harbor Bridge. I ended up just relaxing for the rest of the night.
The next day, I got up and had breakfast which was provided by the hostel. It was interesting Asian cereal with milk and weak coffee. It was exactly what I needed and the price was right. I then headed out for the day.
I came to learn that the subway system in Busan sucks. There is no way to transfer within a station to get to another line, or at least there was no clear or well explained way to do so. I thought one could go through a little exit door, but I did not want to get arrested for inadvertently hopping a turn style. I had to buy two extra fares. Anyway, since I would be going to Seoul, I tried booking a tour to the DMZ, but since military exercises were going on at the moment, we were not allowed to go to the Joint Security Area or JSA. This is the spot with the robbin’s egg blue buildings on the border of North and South Korea where Kim Jong Un famously hopped from one side to the next.
For the unitiated, let me back up. The Korean War often known as the Forgotten War as it occurred in the shadows of World War II and Vietnam, began on June 25, 1950 when North Korean forces crossed the 38th Parallel into the South. After World War II, much like Germany, Korea was divided into two parts. The first was being supported by Communist forces. In the case of North Korea, these were the Red Chinese and the Soviet Union. In the case of South Korea, it was being defended by the new world body, the United Nations with a majority of support from the United States. When the North Korean Army, bolstered by its allies crossed the dividing line into the South, it was able to push all the way to Busan, known as the Busan Perimeter. It took amphibious landings by the hero World War II, the corn-cob pipe wielding General Douglas MacArthur to turn the tide in the South’s favor. UN troops were able to invade North Korea all the way to the Yalu River, which borders China. This was until Chinese troops pushed them back South of the 38th Parallel. The forces fought a war of attrition for a few years, which ceased fighting on July 27, 1953. There was no formal armistice and the never “officially” ended. With President Donald Trump making inroads to peace on the peninsula at the time, the remains of soldiers that died north of the 38th Paralel were being reuturned to be buried.
When I was looking for things to do in Busan, it came to my attention that this was the resting place of our soldiers that died during the Korean Conflict, so I decided to head that way to pay my respects. What too many people do not realize is that after World War II and the creation of the United Nations, this was the first UN lead war. Subsequently, this is the only UN cemetery in the world. Not incredibly far from my hostel, this cemetery sits on some very prime real estate in the middle of the city. It is reminiscent of Arlington and the American Cemetery in Normandy; solemn headstones, plaques, memorials, sculptures, and meticulously kept grounds. It was humbling, beautiful, and peaceful. Except for all the old women talking loudly and the people taking selfies by the blooming trees.
I came back to the hostel and just had to take a moment. I took a little nap, and did not really feel like doing anything. I ended up just walking around my neighborhood. The had a few stands offering interesting food, so I had a cheesy fish cake stick and some Chinese for dinner since it is Sunday. I had a beer to help take the edge off my looming toe surgery which, although very painful, was necessary.
The next day, I got up after forging a plan of action to do everything I could for my remaining time Busan. I got an all-day pass for the metro and headed out. The first stop was Yonggungsa Temple, the most beautiful temple in Korea, so a plaque said. In all honesty, they were right. The subway map did not tell me I needed to take the regional rail to get there, but it was OK. I walked there, and like in front of every tourist attraction holy site, there was a line of vendors. I walked around the temple, which was beautiful. It is located on cliffs over the Korean Strait. It was an incredibly calming place. The sea air, the droning of chants, the temples offering shade from the warm sun, I could see why this place was chosen for a temple. I had some grubs for a midday snack which were about as delicious as they sound. I, unfortunately, burnt my tongue on the boiling hot liquid they were served in. When in Rome, as the saying goes.
After this, I went from one temple to another, the biggest department store in the world, Centum City. It is comprised of 10 stories of expensive clothes, jewelry, electronics, perfume, and restaurants. Some stores had hilarious English names, my favorite being Moose Knuckle. For those not in the know or failed to look it up on Urban Dictionary, a moose knuckle is the male equivalent of the Camel Toe.
I then headed to Dadaepo Beach at the end on the 1 line as far as public transport could take me. I walked on this expansive, windswept beach and was really moved by how large and unobstructed it was. Then headed to Gukje Market and the Jagalchi Fish Market whose stalls went on forever. These were close to the Busan International Film Festival Square which was lovely to see. They had handprints of famous actors and directors from around the world like they do in Hollywood. I guess that is why I like film, it offers international perspectives with the only stipulations being that one has an open mind, the ability to read subtitles, or suffer through (sometimes painful) dubbing.
One thing that I noticed here is the mopeds go wherever they want: crosswalks, sidewalks, one way, narrow streets, etc. I have never seen such a disregard for pedestrians. I guess it is good training for Hanoi, so I have heard.
I came back to the hostel and had some dinner after getting a breaded hot dog and a shrimp cake, both on sticks. Joe, the gentleman that ran the hostel gave me a little Korean good luck charm as he knew I would be leaving early the next day. Wanting to be a good representative of my country, I made sure to bring something that everyone, no matter where we were, would like as a gift. I went to my room, dug around in my bag, and found my pack of indivudial Ghiradelli chocolates. His face lit up when I presented it to him. With both hands.
I settled in for the night, watching an episode of the disastrous final season of Game of Thrones, had a beer, then went to sleep to rest up for my long journey by land to Seoul the next day.
